Finance guide · Updated 2026

Best car loans in Australia

We are not a lender and we take no commission for sending you to one. Here is how car loan pricing actually works, so you can judge any offer put in front of you.

Loan typeHow it worksTypically cheaper?Watch for
Secured car loanThe car is security for the loanYes — lowest rates of the mainstream optionsVehicle age caps; the lender can repossess
Unsecured personal loanNo security taken over the carNo — usually several points higherOften the only option on very old cars
Dealer / point-of-sale financeArranged in the dealership at signingSometimes, on subsidised campaign ratesOrigination margin and bundled add-ons
Novated leaseRepayments come from pre-tax salaryOften, if you are a salaried employeeRequires employer packaging; FBT and residual rules
Chattel mortgageBusiness buys the car, claims the deductionsDepends entirely on your tax positionBusiness use percentage must stack up
Redraw / mortgage top-upAdded to your home loanLowest rate, highest total costA 5-year car repaid over 25 years costs far more

General structure comparison only. We do not publish rates here because advertised car loan rates change constantly and vary with credit profile, vehicle age and loan size.

There is no single best car loan — there is a best one for your situation

Every 'best car loans' list you will find ranks lenders that pay to be on it. We are not a lender and we do not take commission for pointing you at one, so this page does something more useful: it shows you how the pricing actually works, so you can judge any offer put in front of you.

Three things decide what you pay: the structure of the loan, the rate you personally qualify for, and the fees. Most people focus entirely on the middle one, which is where the money quietly leaks out.

Start with the comparison rate — then go past it

The advertised rate is interest only. The comparison rate bundles in the lender's standard fees and expresses everything as one annual percentage, calculated on a fixed example — for car loans, usually $30,000 over five years.

That example is why the comparison rate is a starting point, not an answer. Fixed dollar fees weigh more heavily on a small loan than a large one, so if you are borrowing $60,000 the published comparison rate overstates the fee impact, and if you are borrowing $15,000 it understates it.

The comparison rate also excludes early repayment and exit fees, insurance and warranty products sold at signing, and any margin the dealer adds when they originate the loan. Ask every lender for the total amount payable over the full term. One number, all-in, easy to line up side by side.

Secured or unsecured?

A secured car loan uses the car itself as security, which lowers the lender's risk and therefore your rate. It is the default for anything reasonably new, and it is almost always the cheapest mainstream option.

Unsecured personal loans cost more, sometimes several percentage points more, but they have no vehicle age or condition restrictions. If you are buying a fifteen-year-old car or a private-sale vehicle a lender will not take security over, an unsecured loan may be the only route — and in those cases the extra interest on a small amount is often less than it sounds.

Should you take dealer finance?

Sometimes, genuinely. Manufacturers periodically subsidise finance on slow-moving stock, and a campaign rate can beat anything you would get from a bank. Those offers are real, but they are usually tied to a specific model, grade and delivery window.

Outside those campaigns, point-of-sale finance is generally where the dealership recovers margin it gave up on the car — through the rate, through the term, and through add-ons like paint protection, extended warranty and gap insurance bundled into the repayment so the weekly figure hides them.

The defence is simple: get an independent approval before you walk in, so you have a number to beat. Then let the dealer try to beat it. If they can, take it.

Fixed or variable, and what term to pick

Most Australian car loans are fixed rate, which suits a depreciating asset with a defined life. A variable car loan gives you unlimited extra repayments and a cheaper exit, and is worth considering if you expect to pay the loan out early.

On the term: pick the shortest one you can comfortably service, then keep the payment buffer in your own account rather than stretching the loan to feel comfortable. Extending a $40,000 loan from five years to seven lowers the repayment but adds thousands in interest, and it leaves you in negative equity for far longer — which is the thing that traps people when they need to change cars.

The fee list to ask about, in plain words

Establishment or application fee. Monthly or annual account-keeping fee. Early repayment or break cost if you pay out ahead of schedule. Exit or discharge fee. Dishonour fee. Origination or brokerage fee where a third party arranges the loan.

Ask for these in writing before you sign anything, and ask specifically what it costs to pay the loan out in full at month twelve. That single question separates flexible loans from expensive ones faster than any rate comparison.

Compare a loan against a novated lease before you decide

If you are a salaried employee whose employer offers salary packaging, a novated lease is not a variation of a car loan — it is a different tax treatment. The repayment comes out of pre-tax salary, GST comes off the purchase price and off running costs, and eligible electric vehicles under the fuel-efficient luxury car tax threshold are exempt from FBT.

It is not automatically better. It commits you for the term, it requires your employer's participation, and it ends in a residual you must deal with. Run both through the calculators and compare the total cost, not the fortnightly figure.

How we help, and what we do not do

We are a car buying service, not a lender or a comparison affiliate. Our value is on the other side of the equation: we source the vehicle independently across the national dealer network, so the amount you finance is smaller to begin with. A better price on the car beats a slightly better rate on the loan almost every time.

Where finance is useful to you, we will put the structure options side by side honestly — including telling you when paying cash or keeping your existing car is the better answer.

Car loan comparison FAQs

What is the best car loan in Australia?

There is no single best one. For most buyers of a reasonably new car, a secured fixed-rate car loan with no early repayment fee is the cheapest mainstream structure. Salaried employees with access to salary packaging should compare that against a novated lease, and business buyers against a chattel mortgage, because the tax treatment can outweigh any rate difference.

What is a good interest rate on a car loan?

It depends on your credit profile, the age of the car and the loan size, and advertised rates move constantly — which is why we do not publish a figure here that would be out of date next month. The reliable test is to get two or three written quotes and compare the total amount payable over the full term rather than the headline rate.

What is a comparison rate?

It combines the interest rate with the lender's standard fees into a single annual percentage, calculated on a standard example loan — typically $30,000 over five years for car finance. It is useful for a like-for-like scan, but it excludes early repayment fees, exit fees and any add-ons sold at signing, so it is a starting point rather than the final cost.

Why is the comparison rate higher than the advertised rate?

Because the advertised rate is interest only, while the comparison rate also carries the establishment fee and ongoing account fees. A large gap between the two usually means high fixed fees, which hurt small loans most.

Is dealer finance a bad deal?

Not always. Manufacturer-subsidised campaign rates can genuinely beat bank pricing. Outside those campaigns, dealer finance is often where margin is recovered through the rate, the term and bundled add-ons. Get an independent approval first so you have a number for them to beat.

Should I get pre-approval before I shop?

Yes. Pre-approval tells you your real budget, removes finance as a lever the seller can use, and gives you a benchmark for any offer made in the dealership. Most pre-approvals are valid for a few months.

Does applying for multiple car loans hurt my credit score?

Multiple formal applications in a short period do leave enquiries on your credit file and can affect your score. Ask lenders for an indicative quote or a soft assessment while you are comparing, and only submit a full application once you have chosen.

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